I have removed the steering wheel and jumped accross the contacts, and get a small spark and a burp. If the contact that brings constant power to the horn button stuff was actually grounding itself out on the steering column that would become immediately obvious because that would cause all sorts of problems involving melting wires and smoke. Should the whole steering wheel and column be at +12V? We reassembed and re-checked the steering wheel, cleaned the turn signal switch for good measure and added some grease. The first picture is the wiring of everything horn-related that isn't right behind the steering wheel. I noticed the power for the horn comes from a connection on the light switch and not from a direct connection to the fuse block. It should not be grounding out on the steering column. You'll need to replace the turn signal switch.
The motor has male orange and female black wire, while both yelow and brown have female ends. I went through all your very informative posts and can't seem to find an answer to my problem. We have a '68 with a horn related problem - maybe you can help. I'm pretty sure that the hook thingy rides the edge, but, I'll double check that, also. It would not be difficult to run that through a relay, though.
Or, if it is a incorrectly labeled, it came that way from Ford. What I can see the number says that the car should have a 200 6 cylinder engine and be raven black. I forgot to tell that my car 1965 V8 is equiped with a horn relay. First of all, Cruiser68, did you buy the grille, lamps and harness all from eBay? I sure hope I am making myself clear. We found that when the steering wheel is not installed, the steering column shaft 'floats' electrically not grounded and that when the steering wheel is installed the shaft is at 12V. Thanks for confirming my suspicions.
When I couldn't get the horns working I disconnected the main plug from the steering wheel and measured the voltage of the yellow cable from the light switch. A short circuit or unprotected wire could turn into a costly mistake if left unfixed. We carry instrument cluster wiring harnesses with and without tachometer wiring, as well as instrument panel lighting equipment and dimmer switches. They don't want to re-engineer the entire car, they just want someone to fix what broke. Can you tell me the order and facing direction of the horn ring pieces? Do I have to plug anything in the headlight harness under the hood or do I just have the wrong connectors on the lights?. You have to somehow modify your lamp wiring to match the connector, get lamps with wiring that matches the connector, or take the fog lamp ground wire directly to ground without benefit of the connector.
Or when you turn on the radio and the turn signals start flashing? One of the horn contacts on the turn signal switch is making contact with one of the copper rings on the steering wheel, and the other horn contact touches the other ring. I think it is a ground lug that is grounded on the radiator support metal like is shown in the '66 schematic. Anyone else with thoughts on this? One runs straight back to the fuse box to pick up power and the other across and above the steering column to the left to the headlight switch then straight to the firewall. Using a test light, there is constant power to the inner most post. So, I decided to simply tighten the wheel nut, which was loose.
I don't know at this point if I have the 4 pieces of the horn ring installed correctly I have tried so many iterations. This one is the switch for a 68. The third picture is the back of a steering wheel. Should I be able to make horns work by touching brush on steering column to ground, because on the generator car the horns work when you ground them. Seems it might have been in Norway? And, based on what you've said, that is indeed what you need to do for all of those various ailments your horns are experiencing.
The 2 oddball wires simply can be taped up because they won't be used. If no power is getting there with the horn button pushed, you'll need to remove the horn button by pressing and turning the horn button counter-clockwise and it will pop off of the steering wheel. They take their car to some technician when what they actually need is a mechanic, and this, frequently, does not work out very well at all for the owner. If it does work like that, then the problem is somewhere along the yellow wire that supplies power to the horns, which could very well be the headlight switch, or possibly the connector that plugs into the headlight switch. If you could tell me the scheduled production date of your car, that would really help out.
After reading your posts, I went out to the garage, pushed on the wheel really hard and then pushed the horn button, it worked! If you have any questions that you think I might be able to help you with, or, if I have posted something that still doesn't seem to be as clear as it could be, please feel free to ask. These are the people that I am trying help out with this blog. However, it seems that when the wheel is installed, it grounds itself to the steering coloumn shaft. I also have a horn related mystery on my 66 mustang. The point of this being that the emergency flashers also have constant power, so, it's possiblr that the emergency flashers are contributing to yourproblem, also. They don't really want that 100 pt.