That makes the indicator light go on whenever the solenoid should be locking up the converter. The first photo shows the wiring connector on the driver's side of the transmission with the three clipped wires coming out of it - look closely, it is there in the grime and dirt. This could save me 10 minutes every time it happens if it continues to work! It shows the three wires coming out of the wiring plug on the transmission and the basic location of the wiring plug in relation to the shift linkage. Before creating this, I roughed in the wiring on the vehicle and made this diagram follow the rough harness layout to make it easier to conceptualize what goes where while I was staring at the diagram and doing the actual wiring. I had a heck of a time figuring this out from available information on the internet and eventually had to buy a factory manual for the year and model vehicle my donor transmission came from to confirm all the details. It takes to long to explain. It's important to know what all that wiring does and why it's there - because I'm going to change it to suit the needs I have after swapping this transmission into a non-computer-controlled vehicle.
Passlock uses a magnet in the lock cylinder and a hall effect sensor in the lock cylinder housing. I'll have to research the pressure switch I was trying to use a bit more. I know that only adds up to 515 but when you check it with a meter it will show 520, mine did anyway. It is interesting because the key just wobbles loosely and can be taken out while running. Is it only a simple matter of doing the re-learn process? Also, after playing with the wiring a bit on the vehicle while driving around, I could not get the indicator light to work the way I originally thought it should.
Disable Pass Lock system to prevent from being stranded in the future or. The circuit may be operated from 5V to 12V. This switch is hooked up to manifold vacuum the other is hooked to ported vacuum and can be tapped off the same vacuum line that goes to your vacuum gauge - you do have one of those, don't you? Just wondering if this bypass will work if everything has been hooked back up correctly. Thus, Holley can not guarantee an answer or timing on an answer. The trans diagnostic is handy thanks to add to my info as I have one arriving soon with a issue there. Did your one run the fuel pump ecu? Although Holley employees will take part in answering questions from time to time, your questions may or may not be answered by Holley personnel. When the brakes are applied the relay switches to pin 87 and the circuit is broken, thus unlocking the torque converter.
Don't say you weren't warned! Topics such as module or computer controlled door locks, current flow, voltage, network communication between door lock modules, ground circuits and more. This has never ever happend to me in this truck!! I did that but when we tested the car it would not come up on the convertor. This is provided mainly as food for thought - I'm not sure enough to say what exact effect this would have once the vehicle was being driven. Finally, a bit of re-arranging and cleaning things up netted me this diagram. I got no ohm reading from yellow wire.
I need to know how I can trick computer for engine to run without the rest of the wiring from cab. No sense doing that more than once. I have not tried this resistor method but I do know a little about resistors. It would be interesting to wire it into this system and see how it worked. Like I said truck ran fine before. The need to reduce vehicle weight has prompted these more complex module driven door lock circuits.
When I soldered it back together I got 1300 -1400. If not, the previous diagram is probably the best so far. I am only telling you this because if you have a truck like mine i am trying to save you time. The brown and white provides a ground to activate the relay based on time or rpm. If you decided to wire this new switch in the engine compartment, you would need a third wire heading out to the new vacuum switch and the two vacuum switches could share a common return wire back to the switch. This means a wire connected to it will be grounded through the switch case when pressure is applied to the switch. .
My security system took a crap and it took me 7 days to figure it out. The contacts are connected whenever the transmission is in 4th gear. I hope this helps someone. Could you please supply a wiring diagram explaining where to attach the wires. The pressure switch with 1 pole is self-grounding.
A common Bosch-type relay used. For reference, I'm including a pretty detailed list of the wiring and switches inside my transmission. Father in law tracked down a new column and jacked it into my car but now the vehicle will only crank and power down immediately theft system is active of course, in a terribly ironic turn of events. It has not worked for me thus far, wondering if introducing this fix to the situation will be constructive? Here are the photos of the wiring work I did as I put things back together. The kits typically have two wires going into the transmission - one is power to the torque converter clutch and another is a ground connection.